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Download All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora eBook

by David Rensin

Download All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora eBook
ISBN:
0224075861
Author:
David Rensin
Category:
Water Sports
Language:
English
Publisher:
Yellow Jersey (April 1, 2008)
Pages:
496 pages
EPUB book:
1361 kb
FB2 book:
1922 kb
DJVU:
1195 kb
Other formats
docx lrf lit mbr
Rating:
4.9
Votes:
530


Let me preface by saying that I am a life-long surfer, from the 80's. What I knew of Miki Dora up until 1990 was mostly from the "Endless Summer". I just finished the book today and I have to say that it was a great read, one that was hard to put down (to use a cliche'). The 400+ pages never seem too lengthy while reading, and if anything it could have been longer.

Until now enigmatic surfer legend Miki Dora’s history was written only in water, but David Rensin’s primo All for a Few Perfect Waves catches the life of this charismatic renegade. Engrossin. ensin proves an inexhaustible interviewer, teasing out colorful tales never before set in print. In this vivid biography, Rensin takes on a daunting task: to clarify the clouded myth of legendary surfer Miki Dora. Rensin lets Dora’s friends, lovers and rivals tell the story.

Start by marking All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious . Sadly Miki joined the church

Start by marking All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora as Want to Read: Want to Read savin. ant to Read. To capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing more than three hundred of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and peers-none of whom would previously talk in depth about him-to uncover the truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic prince, chief antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery. Sadly Miki joined the church

For Miki and his family: in salt water, in secret, and in blood. 18. All for a Few Empty Waves.

For Miki and his family: in salt water, in secret, and in blood. For Ernest, Gerda, Joe, Sarah, Elizabeth, and Adam Rensin. For Helen, Pete, Gary, and Paul Peterson. For Suzie and Emmett, for alway. s always. 19. It’s a Hell of a Thing. 20. Million Waves to Darkness. My friendship with Miki started back in the late 1970s.

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There will never be another surfer like Miki 'Da Cat' Dora. The life of Miki Dora is the greatest surf story never told. No one. Not even close. It's all about surfing, and not about surfing at all. Categories: Physics\Mechanics: Oscillations and Waves. Other readers will always be interested in your opinion of the books you've read. Whether you've loved the book or not, if you give your honest and detailed thoughts then people will find new books that are right for them. Распространяем знания с 2009.

For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers-a dashing, enigmatic rebel who .

For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers-a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this da. To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.

Автор: Rensin, David Название: All for a few perfect waves ISBN: 0224075861 ISBN-13(EAN) . Описание: A biography of surfer Miki & Cat& Dora who dominated the Malibu waves.

Описание: A biography of surfer Miki & Cat& Dora who dominated the Malibu waves. It is the story of one man& insistence on personal freedom - and the rewards and the costs that brings. It is also a story of innocence lost, of the growth and commercialization of the California lifestyle.

The life of Miki Dora is the greatest surf story never told.

There will never be another surfer like Miki "Da Cat" Dora. For twenty years the dashing and enigmatic dark prince of California surfing dominated the Malibu waves and his peers' imaginations, blazing a rebel trail that would inspire generations to come. But when the sport exploded into the mainstream and surfing changed for ever, Dora's paradise was lost. All for a Few Perfect Waves is the story of Miki "Da Cat" Dora, the dashing and enigmatic rebel who, for twenty years, was the king of Malibu surfers. He dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and-to this day-inspires the fantasies of decades of Dora wannabes who began to swarm his pristine paradise after the movie Gidget helped surfing explode into the mainstream and changed it forever-many say for the worse

There will never be another surfer like Miki 'Da Cat' Dora. For twenty years the dashing and enigmatic dark prince of California surfing dominated the Malibu waves and his peers' imaginations, blazing a trail that would inspire generations to come. But when the sport exploded into the mainstream and surfing changed for ever, Dora's paradise was lost. Outraged at gridlocked swells and a scene that had grown ever more commodified, Dora eventually fled Malibu, seeking empty waves - and anonymity - beyond America. He'd also run afoul of the law, and he led the authorities on a seven-year chase around the globe. Yet, Dora would never give up searching for the spirit of the Malibu he'd lost. Wherever he made his home - New Zealand, South Africa, France - he personified the rebel heart of surfing and became a legend in his own time. This brilliant biography, based on interviews with more than three hundred people who knew Dora, finally uncovers the truth about surfing's most seductive and complicated icon.
  • unmasked
Even though I was 13 years younger than Miki Dora, I still remember him showing up at our surf spot (circa '63, '64) at Sunset when the surf would inexplicably be down at Malibu. We were pretty good surfers at the time (Hoshi Surf Club), but not in the same league as Dora, so we would respectively get out of the water and sit on the cliffs while Dora and his coterie of 'hanger-ons' would put on a show for the crowd.
Love this account of Dora's life, especially since it's told in vignettes of people who knew him. This is my second reading of Rensin's biography.
  • Mot
I know I did. But in the end, after Mr. Dora scams many across the globe, gets caught, does time, finds *some* post-penitentiary maturation and solace on Jeffries Bay in South Africa (and Biarritz, France), and copes with pancreatic cancer (which brought tears to my eyes), I was glad to have read this book to see some form of redemption in his character. What a romp! While I don't surf, Miki's divorced parents and hard-headed Eastern-European father definitely resonated with my own experience and his quest for tranquility by water and dislike of corporate culture resonated even more.

The book itself can be somewhat confusing given the amount of contributions--there are a lot of stories to follow--but hats off to David Rensin for the monumental task of bringing it all together. (In retrospect, I wonder if childhood trips to Malibu ever afforded a glimpse of Da Cat from afar.)

"All for a Few Perfect Waves" was recommended on a SUP forum along with Susan Casey's books, Blue Mind, Soul of an Octopus, Jaimal Yogis' books, Chris Dixon's "Ghost Wave", Daniel Duane's "Caught Inside", and so on.
  • Fast Lovebird
Rensin has really done his homework and found out every minute detail there is to know about Miki Dora. He paints an enticing picture of the guy and it's worth it to know all these facts about the guy. And, to his credit, he doesn't glorify the guy too much, but paints a portrait of the narcissistic character that he must have been. I don't like Miki Dora after reading this. The writing isn't spellbinding, but it is interesting and seems quite accurate. It isn't like Rensin's goal was to 'put an end to the legend,' or 'tell the inside truth' about Miki. Because he's really nice about everything he says. Still, the guy comes off as a total jerk who looked pretty good out there on a board and pulled off some daredevil board maneuvers, and some nice postures on the board that caught on and made other riders want to copy him. . . more by virtue of his personality than any super-amazing skill as a surfer. That this type of arrogance and chicanery was lauded and emulated, says something about the surfer culture. He was one of the originals and, therefore, he set the tone and gave charisma and charm to a simplistic, down-to-basics way of existing. Appealing, maybe, if you're Adam or Eve, or a caveman. Or, totally into sun, surf, sex, speed, and substances . . . but kind of sad as an example of a role model for future generations of surfing aficionados. The problem is that a writer of a book like this cannot be too hard on the subject of the biography. Because who would buy it then, only to hear a mainstream voice once again criticizing a rebel-hero? As a writer, you kind of have to like this guy if you want people to buy your book. But, even so, Rensin is honest in his portrayal -- and perhaps that's what keeps the book from being a five-star gripping read. He sacrifices a totally compelling story built on playing the conflict and inner psychological conflict besetting a character in a leadership position for accuracy. He did allow the facts to dampen the impact of what might have been a super-compelling story. I give him credit for that because in my mind, facts are more important than story. (Maybe Dora was so shallow he had no conflict or guilt, but I don't believe it.) Even so, it is not a boring book. But also not one of those that you have to read in one or two (or three) sittings because you can't put it down. You CAN put it down, but you also can skip around in it and read 'the good parts' without feeling you've missed something essential. I'm glad to have this as part of my book collection even so.
  • Shezokha
I live in land locked Idaho, have lived in South Florida where the surfing is almost a joke, unless its hurricane season; have never surfed nor desired to try but found this biography extremely compelling. I was riveted from the start and found Miki's complex nature to be fascinating. He was easy to hate and as easy to love. The work to put this biography together must have been exhausting. Rensin has done an excellent job of wrapping it all up into a very readable book. I would highly recommend it to anyone, regardless of their status on surfing.

This book is about so much more than surfing. Miki is a character with extreme depth and I wonder if anyone really knew the "real" man. I can feel his pain as surfing became everyone's playground. I felt the same way about snow skiing when the shorter skis and the snow boarders started to claim the moutains I once dearly loved to ski--where suddenly everyone was doing it, regardless of ability, and it became harder and harder to find your "pure" space.

This book makes you re-examine your own world view and often brings you up short if you approach the exercise honestly. I have kept this book in my library and do not lend it out for fear of losing track of it. It is not a throw away biography but a collectible book of strength, wit, misery, charm, bewilderment, and even humor. I believe what makes this book so tangible is its ability to strike us in the sore places of our own souls. It certainly made me think. Not only about Miki, which goes without saying, but about the changing world around us and how its affected our lives on a very personal level.

The ending was agonizing for me and I cried often. I was quite taken with Miki's father and found his love boundless and Miki's demise sorrowful. To me, Miki's father allowed him to die with grace surrounded by his father's unconditional love. Many fathers would not have taken Miki back so completely given his past actions.

I read the book a while ago, so it's hard to dredge up specifics, but this is a great read. I would highly recommend it. The pictures add much to the overall thrill of the biography. KUDOS to David Rensin. You managed a very tough assignment in a very balanced way!